bubbly-cape-town

Bubbly remains a source of joy — 50 years since it was first made in South Africa. 

Great are the trumpet noises that so often herald the fact that the South African wine industry began all of 362 years ago when Dutch colonist Jan van Riebeeck announced that the first wine grapes had been harvested and pressed at the Cape. The date was 2 February 1659, a timeline which is today tirelessly used to underscore the fact that as far as winemaking goes, we South Africans are no Johnny-come-latelies.

Our first Cap Classique

The first juice might have flowed all those years ago, but the local industry was not that quick in terms of selecting a diverse planting of wine grapes to do justice to the incredible Cape terroir, nor in grasping innovative winemaking techniques. For example, small oak barrels were only introduced into the mid-1970s. Wine lovers here had to wait until the 1980s for their nation’s wine producers to begin titillating their palates with successful modern varieties Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

And it was only in 1971 —50 years ago this year — that a Cape wine farm began to experiment with the making of bottle-fermented sparkling wine, a fizzy wine made famous by Champagne in France. The farm was Simonsig in Stellenbosch. After a visit to the Champagne region of France, Simonsig’s late patriarch Frans Malan decided it was time for South Africa to get its own version of Champagne.

The experiment of making a bottle-fermented sparkling wine was a resounding success. Under the name Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel, Malan began a new chapter for Cape wine. The success of his maiden Kaapse Vonkel inspired other winemakers to take up the challenge, and before you could say “pop that cork”, there were over 100 local versions of this sparkling wine known worldwide as Cap Classique.

For the love of Chardonnay

Celebrating 50 years of Cap Classique, Simonsig is still one of the top brands in this wine category. And although the Kaapse Vonkel brand is very much alive, I only think it apt to toast this half-century with Simonsig’s other great bubbly, the stately Cuvée Royale. This is the estate’s blue-chip Cap Classique. Only one grape variety is used — Chardonnay. And the 48 months of lees-ageing in the bottle elevates it into the category of luxury and excellence.

The Cuvée Royale 2017 is currently on the market, and coming from one of the best vintages for wine grapes in the past 20 years, this wine can pretty much close the book for anyone seeking that life-affirming, inspirational and joyous sensation a fine glass of ice-cold sparkling wine is known to offer.

Simonsig-Cuvee-Royale

For me, Chardonnay is the go-to grape in Cap Classique or Champagne for its zingy purity. The Simonsig Cuvée Royale’s base wine goes into the bottle, where it undergoes that magical second fermentation. Here the 50 million bubbles found in every bottle of fizz are formed, while the 48 months spent in the glass allows the wine to draw an array of flavours and a collection of palate-pleasing textures from the lees (dead yeast cells).

It is a gorgeous wine with fine bubbles rising through the glass’s pale-straw hue. Like a fine sparkling wine, the palate is alerted and awakened with the first sip of freshness and life. Then the flavours of citrus, honey blossom and fennel take over, ending with a beautiful waft of fresh brioche. I’ll raise this glass to Simonsig and 50 years of Cap Classique, and I shall drink it all.

The work of geniuses

No talk of Cap Classique is complete, however, without mentioning Graham Beck Wines. This sparkling wine cellar celebrated 30 years of business last year and is, like Simonsig, synonymous with Cape bubbly. A fantastic wine from that cellar is the Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé 2015.

Graham-Beck-Pinot-Noir-Rose

Expecting a palate-jolting bit of fruity fun, this Cap Classique turned out to be a seriously fine wine of statuesque structure. Mostly Pinot Noir (90%), the wine also has a 10% Chardonnay component which works fantastically well in scalping those assertive tannins acidic base wine tends to draw from a Pinot component during the whole-bunch pressing. The wine spent 60 months on the lees. No one quite knows what goes on during that secondary fermentation in the bottle. But when you taste a wine like this, it is evident that with respect to Graham Beck cellarmaster Pieter Ferreira and his wingman Pierre de Klerk, there is a higher power at work during that process.

The Graham Beck Pinot Noir Rosé is perfect as if the components had been put together by Steve Jobs and Einstein, with a bit of Elon Musk to add an edgy eye seeking adventure of the other-worldly kind. The mousse is explosive and riveting. All the flavour one wants is there: berry and green apple, with mature lines of dry herb and clam brine. Once the bubbles dissipate in the mouth, the taste remains long and true, seamless and graceful and very, very impressive.

A fun addition

Okay, not all sparkling wines are created equal, but most are — for me — deliciously drinkable. Take this Bullicante bubbly from Dalla Cia, the Stellenbosch operation where father Giorgio and son George Dalla Cia craft a substantial collection of wine, grappa and now sparkling wine. The Bullicante, delightfully colourful and Italian-modern in its packaging, is a no-nonsense sparkling wine, made for easy-glugging fun yet still hits those spots the human frame reserves for wine enjoyment.

Dalla-Cia-Bullicante

The name Bullicante derives from a technique used by the Murano Art Glassblowers in Venice, where layers of air bubbles are blown into thick glass and pulled with a blowpipe to form elongated depressions. In a similar way, the Dalla Cia’s have added bubbles to this range using a very northern Italian cultivar, Pinot Grigio, which is not often used as a bubbly and is a variety that is not widely planted in the Cape.

So, after fermenting, the wine gets its fizz through a process that sends a burst of CO2 bubbles into the wine. The result is a fun-to-drink bubbly, brim-full of melon and gooseberry notes with a palate that is firm enough to ensure the pleasure of every sip lasts long enough to ease you into the next one.

Whatever’s in your glass this year, make sure some of it sparkles. Heaven knows we’re worth it.